What if dermaplaning’s most impressive product-penetration finding is also a reason to stop chasing more penetration? A laboratory study found increased drug passage through dermaplaned skin alongside changes to its protective barrier. That is not the same as proving better skincare results in people. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790.)
This Science Journal investigation separates the smooth-skin appeal from the much bigger claim that shaving the surface somehow resets your skin.
L1 STRONG — Multiple RCTs or systematic reviews in humans
L2 MODERATE — Some clinical studies; limitations exist
L3 PRELIMINARY — Small studies or limited clinical evidence
L4 MECHANISTIC — Cellular, biochemical, or animal evidence only
L5 HYPOTHESIS — Interesting science; insufficient evidence
The overall rating applies to the central permeability claim, supported here by an in-vitro study rather than a clinical rejuvenation trial. Other claims are assessed separately. The moisturizer review and single sunscreen trial below provide indirect support for basic care, not a higher rating for dermaplaning.
In Plain English
Your outer skin layer is a gatekeeper, not packaging to remove. In the cited laboratory experiment, dermaplaning made that gate more permeable. The experiment does not establish that your favorite serum will work better, be safer, or produce younger-looking skin afterward. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790.)
Who This Is For
Anyone considering facial dermaplaning for a smoother-looking finish, especially if a video has convinced you to follow it immediately with your strongest actives. This is an evidence audit and conservative skincare framework, not an at-home blade tutorial.
1. More Permeation Is a Finding, Not a Benefit L4 MECHANISTIC
Tijani and colleagues used baclofen and diclofenac as model drugs and treated a defined skin area with four strokes of a dermaplane device. Histology showed removal of the stratum corneum and some viable epidermis. Electrical resistance fell, consistent with reduced barrier properties, and drug permeation increased in the laboratory setup. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790.)
The key distinction: this was a drug-delivery investigation. It did not test whether a commercial vitamin C serum reduced wrinkles after dermaplaning, whether daily facial shaving was safe, or whether the procedure rebuilt collagen. Those conclusions would require different studies.
2. Technique Matters, and a Video Cannot Standardize It L4 MECHANISTIC
The investigators found variation between device users, and the two model drugs did not behave identically. That makes a universal promise such as “dermaplaning doubles every serum’s effectiveness” particularly hard to justify. The experiment supports a narrower statement: under its study conditions, dermaplaning altered barrier properties and drug permeation. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790.)
Our recommendation is therefore not to use a freshly treated face as a penetration experiment. Cosmetic smoothness is a different goal from deliberately changing drug delivery.
3. Aftercare Is Not an Active-Ingredient Sprint L2 MODERATE · INDIRECT
A review of moisturizers describes their role in care for dry skin and disorders involving impaired barrier function. That supports a simple moisturizing approach in general; it is not a trial of a particular cream after dermaplaning. (Purnamawati et al., 2017 — PMID: 29229630.)
Photoprotection has evidence independent of this procedure. In a randomized trial of 903 adults younger than 55, daily sunscreen use was associated with less progression of measured skin aging over 4.5 years than discretionary use. That supports consistent sunscreen use, not a claim that dermaplaning adds an anti-aging advantage. (Hughes et al., 2013 — PMID: 23732711.)
“A smoother surface is a cosmetic goal. A leakier barrier is not automatically a skincare upgrade.”
— The SS Perspective, editorial takeaway, not a quotation from a study.
⚠️ Honest Limitations
The dermaplaning evidence examined here is laboratory permeability research, not a human trial demonstrating long-term wrinkle reduction, scar improvement, or safer active delivery. It does not establish an ideal home frequency or a universal recovery timeline. The moisturizer review and sunscreen trial are indirect evidence for basic care, not dermaplaning-specific aftercare studies. No product linked below was validated by these papers.
For active breakouts, a rash, broken skin, recurrent irritation, or previous problems after hair removal, ask a qualified clinician whether dermaplaning is appropriate rather than experimenting. Seek care for persistent or worsening pain, redness, swelling, or signs of infection.
The SS Protocol L2 · INDIRECT BASIC-CARE RATIONALE
This is our conservative editorial routine, not a clinically tested dermaplaning protocol. Follow your treating professional’s instructions when applicable.
AM: Protect Rather Than Escalate
Keep cleansing gentle and use a familiar moisturizer if tolerated. ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream is one store option to consider, not a requirement. Use sunscreen according to its label; Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50+ PA++++ is a linked option. Do not force a product that stings onto irritated skin.
PM: Resist the “Now It Absorbs Better” Temptation
Choose a short routine built around products you already tolerate. Our recommendation is to avoid using dermaplaning as a reason to immediately introduce strong acids, retinoids, or several new serums. The laboratory permeability finding is a reason for caution, not an invitation to intensify. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790.)
Weekly: Reassess, Do Not Automatically Repeat
No weekly dermaplaning schedule is prescribed here. Track comfort and visible irritation, and decide with a professional whether the procedure belongs in your routine at all.
🛒 Shop This Protocol
ILLIYOON Ceramide Ato Concentrate Cream →
A moisturizer option for a deliberately simple routine.
Beauty of Joseon Relief Sun SPF50+ PA++++ →
A sunscreen option to use as directed.
These are shopping suggestions, not products proven to treat dermaplaning complications.
Stack It With / Don't Stack It With
Stack it with: restraint, familiar products, moisturizer, and label-directed sun protection.
Don't stack it with: a DIY penetration challenge, multiple exfoliation methods in one session, or the assumption that tingling proves effectiveness. This is a conservative editorial recommendation, not a tested combination protocol.
Skin Type Customization
Dry or easily irritated: skipping the procedure is a reasonable choice. Prioritize a comfortable basic routine and discuss recurring symptoms with a clinician.
Oily or breakout-prone: do not treat facial shaving as acne therapy. Active inflammatory lesions are a reason to get individualized advice.
Skin prone to lingering marks: discuss your history before a procedure rather than assuming the same technique suits everyone.
Comfortable, nonreactive skin: a cosmetic preference still does not make frequent repetition necessary. Keep the goal specific and the routine simple.
📅 Results Timeline
Do not confuse a surface appearance change with a measured biological repair outcome. The cited dermaplaning study followed drug permeation over 24 hours in vitro, not wrinkle improvement over weeks. We cannot derive a guaranteed recovery period, collagen timeline, or repeat-treatment interval from it. The sunscreen trial measured a separate prevention outcome over years. (Tijani et al., 2023 — PMID: 36725790; Hughes et al., 2013 — PMID: 23732711.)
The SS Perspective
You do not need to turn every grooming choice into a cellular rejuvenation story. If you like the cosmetic result, be honest about the goal. If your skin objects, listen. Our position is simple: a procedure earns its place by improving your experience without demanding a bigger, harsher routine afterward. More penetration is not the same thing as more progress.
Build the Foundation First
Explore the barrier-care framework and find sun protection that fits your routine.
Robert Lee
The Serum Scientist — Founder, SerumScientist.com
📖 References
Tijani AO, Frempong D, Kaur J, Sergent S, Shaw K, Lessaint R, Al Shawi M, Verana G, Puri A. Dermaplaning for Transdermal Drug Permeation Enhancement: A Qualitative and Quantitative Assessment. AAPS PharmSciTech. 2023;24:54. PMID: 36725790.
Purnamawati S, Indrastuti N, Danarti R, Saefudin T. The Role of Moisturizers in Addressing Various Kinds of Dermatitis: A Review. Clinical Medicine & Research. 2017;15(3–4):75–87. PMID: 29229630.
Hughes MC, Williams GM, Baker P, Green AC. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine. 2013;158(11):781–790. PMID: 23732711.
📚 Further Reading
Skin Barrier Repair Protocol
The Skin Barrier Decoded
Skincare Pilling: Why Your Routine Rolls Off Your Face
© 2026 SerumScientist.com. All rights reserved. This article is for educational purposes only and does not constitute medical advice. Always consult a qualified healthcare professional before beginning any new skincare regimen.
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